Far from the symphony of sound of Paris’s trendy 11th arrondissement and the Vieux-Nice neighborhood, Charlotte Leon and her husband Christopher Edwards (the former chef at Le Saint Sébastien in Paris) are building their delightful culinary world in the Musiciens quarter of Nice. There, they compose a bistrological score with no false notes, like the day we went for lunch: heady panisse intensified by some added fried sage, lemon and garlic confit; incredible eggs mayonnaise pimped out with cinnamon, a clever touch which made Christopher vice-champion at the 2022 Oeuf Mayo World Championships; goat cheese from the farmers’ market marinated with garlic, olive oil and fennel, in perfect harmony with tomatoes and crackers made from brewer’s spent grain; heirloom Nice long squash prepared three ways – stewed in lace-like slivers, wedges marinated with cumin and purée mixed into a perfectly executed freekeh risotto; very cheeky Aveyron farçous fritters paired with lentils and chive cream; memorable cuttlefish ragù with sea bean tempura… Before a sensuous rosemary crème brûlée, or a diabolically good chocolate mousse served with a chestnut honey parfait. So good, it strikes a chord! // Lenny Vega
FEELING THIRSTY? : A small, biodynamic wine selection, in which you’ll find options from Provence (Forum Julii, a rolle from the Château Paquette at €6.50 a glass), the Gard (Marie-Charlotte, a merlot-grenache blend from the Domaine du Père Benoît at €48 a bottle) and the Aveyron (Calibre 12, a blend from the Domaine Montrozier at €39).
PRICE: : Set menus €23-27 (lunch), à la carte €31-48 (dinner).
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