Terrazzo tile floors, a flashy chandelier and gingham tablecloths set the scene… After starting his career in a few Michelin-starred kitchens (Ducasse in Monaco, Troisgros in Tokyo…), Pierre Altobelli decided to revitalize his family’s bistro, which was originally opened by Davia, his grandmother, back in 1953. Led by the chef’s mother, the young, enthusiastic team sends out bistro dishes with a Côte d’Azur twist. The other night: plump barbajuans – fried ravioli stuffed with chard, lovage and ricotta; an earthy rabbit and sage terrine; shockingly good marinated anchovies over a bed of tapenade and roasted peppers; before a radiant lemon tart. A few other Nice treats that we noticed on nearby tables included fried baby squid and a beef stew with porcini mushrooms from the backcountry… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? More or less conventional wines: a Rhone white from the Domaine de Villeneuve (€6 a glass), a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Château de Roquefort (€28 a bottle), a Bandol red from the Domaine de Terrebrune (€47)…

PRICE: Dishes €10-28.