At Simona Mazzarone and Leo Spadaro’s wine shop, complete with big wooden tables and French school chairs, the Italian couple (she’s a former architect, he’s a cheesemaker) showcase the best natural wines from the other side of the Alps: a 2018 montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Emidio Pepe (€43), a chardonnay produced by Josko Gravner (€50) or even some rare vintages from Stanko Radikon (2004, 2009, 2011… prices provided upon request), to cite just a few. But there are also a few hard-to-find Slovenian wines (Aci Urbajs, Branco and Vasja Cotar) and a few beautiful French options, including savagnins from Didier Grappe, pinot gris from the Domaine Lissner and Bourgeois-Diaz champagnes. All of which are displayed on the blonde wood shelves organized by characteristic: spicy full-bodied wines, light wines, rich and powerful wines… And to go with all these bottles that you can pop open in house (for an additional €5-6 corkage fee), there are a few well-balanced small plates, like the homemade beef empanadas or brioche with pastrami and rémoulade. As a bonus, their employees Apolline and Marius provide top-notch service! // Gwen Jacquère 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Rosammare, a Sicilian nero d’Avola produced by Nico Barraco (€28 in-house).