restaurant

Les Agitateurs

Les Agitateurs (Nice)

© Thomas Audiffren

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In their lovely little bistro (blonde hardwood floors, floral tiling, exposed stone walls), three friends who met at the Institut Bocuse are shaking things up in Nice’s foodosphere: Pierre-Jean, who dictates the tempo in the dining room, plus Juliette and Samuel in the kitchen. The night we went, their virtuoso €49 menu included: a delicious charred tomato served with a slice of lemon, lime and black lime frozen meringue; heady skate in an intense bisque with samphire, beans and spider crab; a masterful grilled Sisteron lamb chop with an anchovy fillet and lemon curd; before the stunning dessert of raw cherries, cherry compote and a cherry-port reduction, with red chicory and bay leaf ice cream! FYI: the lunch menu has more of a bistro feel (eg.: zucchini blossom beignets with lemon zest, mushroom and truffle cream risotto, slow-roasted lamb shoulder, nectarine tarte tatin), and they also serve brunch on Sundays (viennoiseries, jams, homemade granola, a dish of the day and a dessert – banofee pie, fig and almond cream tart…). // E.DiB.

FEELING THIRSTY? Clean wines: a Loire Viognier from Stéphane Montez, a Crozes-Hermitage red from David Reynaud (€8 each glass), a Burgundy Aligoté from Jean-Fournier (€39 a bottle), a Vacqueyras from Montirius (€54)…

PRICE: Fixed-price menus at lunch €17-26, dinner €49 (six courses) and €79 (nine courses). Brunch €27 (Sunday).

Late-night munchies?

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