Pirouette

After shaking up Rue Bonaparte with their gastrological dishes, Les Agitateurs Juliette Busetto and Samuel Victori have taken over number 34 of the same street. There, they gave chef and Negresco alum Brice Costa control of the kitchen of this classic and muted space that combines exposed stone walls, white tablecloths and golden light fixtures. Picked from the dizzying menu the night we went: Mediterranean bluefin tuna in a Tahitian-style marinade with coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass, makrut lime and cilantro; lamb shoulder slow roasted in harissa and then shredded, before being wrapped up in lettuce like a taco, with sesame cream, pickled cucumber and shiso; lace-like scallop carpaccio paired with turnips, sorrel, yuzu and lemons from the coast; futuristic fried chicken and French fries, all served with sesame mayonnaise and a red cabbage, soy bean, cilantro and peanut salad; along with a balanced duck pithiviers (breast, stuffed thighs and foie gras) with a full-bodied jus… And to round out this seriously impressive affaire, a citrus fruit vacherin with meringue and herb sorbet, plus a perfect crêpe Suzette. // Lenny Vega

FEELING THIRSTY? : Something for every mood, with both convention and natural wines to choose from: Le Silence Est D’Or, a Beaujolais white (€11 a glass), Dencon, a Gaillac ondec from Causse Marines (€54 a bottle), On A Vu Honfleur, a Rhone grenache-cinsault blend produced by Julien Besson (€58)…
PRICE: : À la carte €51-67, shared plates €70-80.