Ever since meeting at hospitality school, followed by stints with Claude Legras in Geneva and at Château de Labro in Onet, Léna Bony and Mathieu Libourel have been inseparable! And in 2022, aged just 28, the Aveyron natives brought this village inn back to life, a stone’s throw from the thunderous Salles-la-Source waterfall. Today, it dazzles with parquet floors, pale wood, inky midnight-blue accents and a generous, welcoming bar. Joined by up-and-coming chef Marine Guichou (who previously shared the Château de Labro kitchen with Mathieu), the trio cooks for the local faithful, sourcing straight from Rodez market. That lunchtime, the menu played smart games with texture and repetition: cauliflower three ways – roasted, pickled, puréed – paired with smoked herring and lemon cream, all sea-kissed with a marinière foam; followed by beautifully blushing Ségala veal rump, matched with three-way butternut squash (see above), caramelized onions and a delightfully sharp meaty jus, served with a pascade (a thick Aveyron crêpe). Dessert kept up the variations theme: grapefruit and orange explored as supremes, gel, compote and candied zest, twirled together with lemon sorbet, olive oil biscuit and a cloud of lemony whipped cream. · Aya Bouriole

FEELING THIRSTY? A few standouts on an otherwise conventional wine list: a rasteau by Élodie Balme (€6 a glass), Vin d’Autrefois, an Aveyron white from the ever-brilliant Olivier Basset (€36 a bottle) or Parole Libérée, a joyful marcillac red from Domaine Matha (€28), doing serious work to restore the appellation’s good name.

PRICE: Set menus €19-23 (weekday lunch), €29-45 (Saturday and Sunday), €29, €36, and €46 (dinner).