Opéra? A chic contemporary look, Murano glass light fixtures, silk curtains that keep you in a private bubble within the Bourran neighborhood… This is where the Venetian maestro Vasco Baldisserotto, a disciple of Marchesi, Alajmo and Bras, sings an Italian song to the glory of Auverge’s terroir: poultry from Les Volailles d’Alice in the Cantal, red meats from La Table de Solange in Cassagnes-Bégonhès, vegetables from Roualdès in Saint-Parthem… And to begin this concerto of flavors, served on ceramics made by Martina Cristofani: some splendid amuse-bouches, like the tomato and hay cappuccino with mushroom powder, the Baby Boo squash mousse sprinkled with matcha and a leaf-shaped crisp, or the carbonara tartlet… Followed by a stunning sweet and savory tomato confit tart with a tomato-papaya tartare, draped in a vinegar jelly and sprinkled with tomato powder, sweetened by blood sausage ice cream, bacon espuma and basil; divine cod slow-roasted in olive oil, topped with an oda pepper mousse, treviso and served with coco de Paimpol beans, a coffee and oxalis espuma; before an incredible fruit soup with pistachio sorbet, apricot meringue, purple amaranth and marigolds. Bellissimo! // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? : French and Italian bottles uncorked by wine lover Mathieu Boutet: Nuits Blanches, a Loire white from the Domaine La Piffaudière (€8.50 a glass), Cantine Colosi, a Sicilian nero-d’avola (€32), Le Trescol, an Aveyron red from Olivier Julien (€48)…
PRICE: : Set menus €40-75, game menu €100 (during hunting season, from November to February), food and drink pairings €39.