Resisting the temptation to match its facade to its name, the pastry shop Pistache sets the tone with a coat of chocolate brown paint, much like its devilishly delicious mousse (made for sharing with friends). Running this Rodez boutique is Lot-native Mylène Colombié (ex-Belvédère in Bozouls and Cascade in Salles-la-Source) and the local kid Maxime Ferrié (ex-Café Bras), who prepare some truly excellent treats for you: honeyed peach pavlova, framboisier cake, apricot tartlets, along with all the classic viennoiseries, brioches, madeleines and cookies, which you can devour in house around one of the three tables if waiting until you get home feels like torture! // Marcellin Caillou

THE HIDDEN GEM: The aptly-named, and already legendary, pistachio cake (€12).