A Liège institution since 1987, Danieli could easily have become a fond memory. Instead, it’s entering a new era. Yann Stroobant (ex-Cabale) is the man behind the revival, bringing a freer take on Italian cuisine built around exceptional produce (fish from Walter Dubois, vegetables from Gregory Bodson) and creating a warm, inviting interior with exposed beams, an intimate dining room, veined marble tables, vinyl spinning in the background and Max the dog keeping watch over the place. That evening, the maestro and his team reeled out: an amuse-bouche of radish carpaccio drizzled in balsamic caramel; cauliflower two ways (mousseline and roasted); pillowy gnocchi with chorizo sauce, smoked ricotta and walnuts; flaking pollack with miso butter, cime di rapa, pickled mustard seeds and black garlic sauce; followed by delicious ravioli stuffed with tomatoey sausage ragù, Parmesan and spinach. A fresh direction without forgetting its roots. Count us in for the next chapter. · Marie-Boulette Saucey

Feeling thirsty? A brilliantly curated wine list full of off-the-beaten-path bottles, available by the glass (€6-7) or by the bottle: a Tuscan rosé from Domaine Terra d’Arcoiris (€42), a Beaujolais white from Domaine Saint-Cyr (€55) or Nuit d’Ivresse, a red from Domaine Breton in the Loire Valley (€50).

Price: Set menus €29 (lunch) and €50-60 (dinner); starters €18-24, mains €24-34, desserts €9, wine pairing €28.