Was it sheer contrariness that the sweetly-named Mirabelle (Schamp) chose to open Club Cornichon? Or simply a love of a really good sandwich? Both, apparently! Behind her forest-green-shuttered hole-in-the-wall, this nutritionist is shaking up the city’s takeaway scene, sending out sammies straight from kitchen to sidewalk – and proving that slow food can be healthy, delicious and locally sourced. That lunch, we went for the œuf-Bene-truffe, a bun smothered with lemon-truffle butter and packed with a perfectly runny egg, airy leek mousse and a tangle of roasted and frizzled leeks, plus pickled mustard seeds. It narrowly beat the pulled roast chicken option as our favorite, stacked between slices of seeded country bread with rosemary potatoes, roast garlic aioli, apple butter, salad and pickled red onion – a sweet-and-sour combination to die for. Welcome to the Club! · Marie-Boulette Saucey

The hidden gem: The cookie (€3.50), made with love, loaded with chocolate chips and even better warmed up – take the chef’s advice for maximum softness.