With its ornate moldings, knockout bottles and a menu that pulls firmly on the heartstrings, the new venture from chef Tom Foguenne and cork-wielding Elisa Canovo brings serious eaters and committed drinkers together under one handsome roof, inside a traditional townhouse dressed to the nines (period fireplaces, original stained glass windows, glints of shimmering wallpaper). Set canal-side along the banks of the Dérivation, the duo (backed by Quentin De Ridder in the kitchen and Justine Mazy front of house) conducts five-course menus with quiet authority (plus a dazzling array of house charcuterie that makes a convincing case for nose-to-tail devotion). The wines? Exceptional bottles that often live a second life as single-stem vases on the tables – Radikon, Houillon-Bruyère, L’Anglore, Dard & Ribo, Château Le Puy, Coulée de Serrant… we could happily go on. That evening’s procession began with: citrusy amberjack crudo edged with chermoula; charred corn-fed chicken thigh and sunchoke skewer, loved up with seared langoustine, crème fraîche and a glossy shellfish jus; before ending with Flemish-style waffles dusted in brown sugar and crowned with a swoop of whipped cream. Faultless from first sip to last bite – not a single off note – and make no mistake, this place is set to make some noise. · Mireille Flocon

FEELING THIRSTY? If the cellar tempts you to dig deeper, Elisa’s recommendations are pure gold: Vinestar, a Catalan sparkling wine (€8 a glass), Fu Manchu, a Sicilian red from Azienda Agricola Kalma (€62 a bottle) and Lias, a chardonnay from Domaine Labet (€86).
PRICE: Set menu €68 (five courses), house charcuterie €14.