Resurrection on Rue de la Madeleine! A favorite hangout for Liège locals for over half a century, Le Veneto closed its doors back in 2015 and finally emerged from its coma five years later thanks to Tim Susan (ex-Goose). Paneled walls, ceramic tiling, bistro chairs and timeworn wooden tables: the legendary restaurant, which has kept its original decor, currently sends out the same unfussy bistrattoria cuisine that originally earned it its reputation. And just like before, there’s no need to look for a menu: the handful of antipasti (vitello tonnato, charcuterie platters, etc.) and a few simple but effective traditional dishes get described to you tableside with a smile – rigatoni in lamb ragù, linguine with sage butter and on-the-bone ham, veal Milanese… What did we pick the day we went for lunch? Crispy yet tender Parmesan croquettes; food-porn-esque pasta with tomatoes and burrata; plump cannelloni baked with ground pork and veal; and a devilishly good caramelized crème brûlée. // Monica Noli

FEELING THIRSTY? Classic spritzs and negronis (€7) to start and, written out on the blackboard, a dozen transalpine bottles of wine at reasonable prices – a Friuli pinot grigio from Terre Magre (€4 a glass), an organic Primitivo from Puglia (€30 a bottle), or Peroni beer to help it all slide down at lunch (€4 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €35-55, mains €15-18.