Grabuge

Are you looking for grabuge, or a bit of a rumpus? Look no further! For anyone who can dodge their way past the sonic blasts coming from the sound system and the contagious laughter of groups of friends for a seat at one of the undulating tables, the festive, gourmet spot by the foursome that is Pannawat Wichaiphum, Alexander Duke, Geoffrey Doré and Ngah Hin-Tieu (Old Boy, Crab Club, Liesse) is the place to be. But the in-your-face assaults don’t stop there. The plates flew out of the open kitchen like nunchucks, as ninja-like diners sunk their teeth into: an oyster shooter struck through the heart with yuzu, hazelnuts and makrut lime salt; cockles with polenta, sage and a Vietnamese peppercorn sauce; a powerful egg cocotte with mussels, chestnuts and oyster mushrooms prepared like a chawanmushi; new-fangled pollack fish fingers paired with a spicy red curry chantilly for dipping; and wild duck plated over celeriac purée and a chili vinaigrette, for a knock-out punch. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? An ample wine list for naturalist tastes, from the fun Lügar, a skin-contact garganega and moscato from Finca Casa Balaguer (€45 a bottle), to Le Mol, the delicate Auvergne red from Patrick Bouju (€54), not to mention Pépin, an Alsatian orange wine aged in barrels by the Domaine Achillée (€6.50 a glass)… Along with beers (Illegaal, L’Ermitage or La Mule, €3.50 to €5.50), cocktails (€10-14), soft drinks (€4-5) and quality digestifs (€8-14).

PRICE: Shared plates €10-17, whole fish €26, dessert €8.