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Inspyration? It’s hiding in a white stone buildyng at a restaurant with sleek decor where the Normandy-born chef Jérémy Cannesan, who works alone yet appears to be everywhere all at once, relies on his instincts and inspirations of the moment to whip up eco-friendly dishes, all while using quality ingredients from his suppliers whose photos are hung on the walls. For us, the day we went for lunch, we had a magical Corrèze caillade (fermented raw cow’s milk) camouflaged by a small butter bean salad, on a bed of Comté aged for 18 months, a preserved egg yolk and fermented mustard seeds, plus a crumble topping and fried carrot tops; formidable Quercy lamb cooked for seven hours with a reduction and vegetables from Les Jardins de Lagarde in Saint-Viance (carrots, zucchini, fennel) grilled on the BBQ and caressed by a tomato coulis and oak leaf lettuce; before cheeky strawberries from the Lot department paired with basil sponge cake with meringue and an extremely delicious strawberry-pear jus. // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? Bottles chosen by Olivier Leydier, the wine merchant at Larche: Wunjo, a Corbières red from the Domaine La Rune (€6 a glass), Quintessence Eclosion, a Coteaux-Varois white from La Bastide de Blacailloux (€34 a bottle), Les Calades, a Cahors from Laurent Marre (€35)… 
PRICE: Set menus €26 to €54. 

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