Le Boïdicou

Le Boïdicou (the “wicker basket” in Occitan) is a small gem located a stone’s throw from the Grotte de Lascaux, founded by two 25-year-olds, the self-taught Benjamin Gourdon and the locally-born chef Julie Buquet (who used to work at Hélène Darroze’s Marsan in Paris). The day we went for lunch, seated in a rustic yet cool space (rough stone walls, an original fireplace), the menu featured: a stunning Sarlat tomme shortbread tart with an herb jus, topped with a variety of beet preparations (purée, beet greens) and siphoned Rocamadour cheese; chicken ballottine from the Maison Pélégris in Les Farges, served with couscous, zucchini and plenty of spiced jus de viande; and for the fresh finale, a mint granita topped with lime cream and candied yuzu. At night, Le Boïdicou upgrades its offering with three menus, featuring, for example: egg, tomme de Sarlat, soy sauce and walnuts; peach, potatoes, Monbazillac, black garlic and smoked herring. // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? Cayrol, an elegant and fruity Catalan wine from the Domaine Lafage (€4 a glass), Arcane, a Bergerac white from Romain Claveille (€35 a bottle), Le Mule, a red from the Château Cluzeau (€25).  
PRICE: Set menus €20 (Friday lunch, coffee including) and €35 to €55 (dinner), à la carte €34-48.