At not even 30 years old, César Hoed (ex-Humus & Hortense, Nénu) sings his ode to vegetables sourced from Le Monde des Millles Couleurs (in Dikkebus) in four couplets, lit up by his rotisserie oven. What exactly should you expect? A rock ’n’ roll playlist that gets feet tapping, out-of-the-ordinary decor (huge LED lights above the bar, retro Brussels-style tiling, bare bricks), and Pierre Duroure (who also used to work at Nénu) taking care of the service, the night we went: a plump bok choy ballotine stuffed with more bok choy, shiitake mushrooms and mezcal, served in an incredible bouillon, all intensified by black garlic; tender roasted chicory with a sage-almond crumble and ajo blanco sauce; a big smashed potato cradling an oyster (the only non-plant-based element of the meal), purple carrot purée and pickles – also served as a cheeky croquette; before a pumpkin seed biscuit topped with capers and heliantis preserved in chai, plus a few chocolate capers, served with a warm cup of chai topped with heliantis mousse. Would we change anything? Not an iOta! // Luce Berdon

FEELING THIRSTY? Micro-brewery beers made a few metro stops away, like the Pigeon brew from La Brasserie de la Source (€3.80) and a small selection of natural wines: Galinette, a Coteaux-d’Aix white from the Domaine de Sulauze (€6.50 a glass), or Ponzichter, an Austrian red from the Weninger estate (€36 a bottle). Unlimited filtered water (€3).

PRICE: Set menu €39.