Lake views, a festive hum and the soul of an artist’s workshop… Jérémy Nguyen Ba imagined his refuge-like bistro-café inside a lovingly hand-restored eighteenth-century building straight out of a Brothers’ Grimm fairy tale. The grandson of painter-sculptor Georges Soubrier, he cut his teeth traveling far and wide, working in bars and restaurants from Paris (Mama Shelter, Jeannine) to New York, before finally unpacking his bags and creating his own vision of a family home in the shadow of the Puy Mary summit. The result? Pallet sofas, twinkling fairy lights, ancient beams steeped in history and a gorgeous terrace gazing out over the Lac des Graves. On the plate, the mood stays local, vibrant and sincere: butter terrine scattered with chives and red onion, served with crisp radishes and sublime country bread; roasted goat cheese with cranberries, pickled mustard seeds and walnuts tousled in a simple arugula salad; a comforting bougnat sandwich layering grilled halloumi, red cabbage, chickpeas and crumbled feta; and to finish, a balm-like dark chocolate pot crowned with caramelized hazelnuts and fleur de sel. · Pedro Rascaille

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines galore, with an emphasis on French and friendly prices: Les Cabanes Rouges, a juicy Languedoc red from Amélia Barbier (€5 a glass), L’Essentiel, a cheverny from Domaine Bellier (€6) and Volcane, an Auvergne pinot noir from Domaine Miolanne (€39 a bottle). A dd a handful of cocktails and mocktails (€7-12), Bougnat beers (€3-4 a half-pint) and homemade ginger, rose or grapefruit lemonades (€3.50).

PRICE: Small plates €5-12, à la carte €27-35, brunch menu €23 (Sunday).