At the foot of the Millevaches plateau, a wine bar with a thousand and one bottles awaits. Here, in this secret yet thrilling (more or less) medieval village, Romain Peutat (a former music agent of angry London rockers who later fell headfirst into the Creuse wine scene) welcomes his thirsty flock with open bottles. From his slick little shop on the village square, this purveyors of fine wines has rounded up the cream of the crop from the Creuse, Auvergne and beyond, available to take away or – highly recommended – to drink on the spot without delay (€6 corkage fee): a local Ceci N’Est Pas Un Blanc from Vin à Poil (€20 a bottle), Indolent, an Angevin chenin from Didier Chaffardon (€22) and Zozo Kairos, a Saintongeais blend from winemaker and distiller Mathilde Bégaud (€18). Also spotted among the local curiosities: Cachemire, a wild plum wine by Cyrille Chevalier, aka Lo Gano des Combrailles (€18). Pair it with a cheese plate (€10), Iberian charcuterie (€15) or Marennes-Oléron oysters on market days (€14). · Pascal Diagonale