A wine bar? A cave à manger? A café? Romane Vallon and Cyprien de Lageneste decided not to choose when they took over Le Moderne, a relic from the 1970s on the village rambla of Tournon-sur-Rhône. From the first espressos at eight o’clock in the morning, to late-afternoon glasses of pastis, not to mention the half-pints of beer at noon, they’ve really got it all! But the true passion of these wine-loving wanderers remains popping open bottles: she wears a oenologist’s hat, and he vinifies natural grapes under the Vindiou label. Feel like raising a glass on the terrace? There are local wines that won’t hurt your wallet (Le Murmure de l’Eau, a white blend from Ardèche winemaker Étienne Seignovert at €4 a glass, a Crozes wine from the owner at €35 a bottle), sharp choices from a little further away (a Fleurie produced by Guy Breton at €38, an Arbois white from Stéphane Tissot at €42), and if you’re in the mood to spend some big bucks, a few carefully-chosen nectars (a 2019 Greffieux-Bessards Crozes Hermitage produced by Bernard Faurie for €97, an extremely rare Saint-Joseph from Pierre Gonon at €76). And to go with all those libations, they offer up a beautiful array of tapas: locally raised, free-range pulled pork, classic pâté en croûte with pistachios, Saone River trout gravlax paired with marinated zucchini, bellota ham cured for 48 months, and a classic cheesecake to round things out (plates ranging from €4.50 to €14). // Adrien Nouviaire