A solid stone building (once a bar-tobacconist-newsagent) clings to the edge of the ravine, with a terrace that peers straight down into the valley. Inside, it’s textbook bistro comfort: a big wooden bar, wood-paneled walls and red leather banquettes. The result? A pitch-perfect bistro run by a young couple of former Lyonnais who swapped city life for fresh air in Boffres. Jean Pointet, who cut his teeth at Café Bellecour in Lyon, is in the kitchen, while Philippine de Joussineau, a photographer, sets the tone front of house. Take that lunchtime, with the impeccably judged set menu: hard-boiled eggs lavishly coiffed with mayo; perfectly seasoned hand-cut steak tartare, served with ultra-soft ratatouille and new potatoes; and a crème brûlée that gets the simple things just right. Come evening, the menu leans into comforting staples – carp quenelles, Ardèche trout, beef chuck pressé, Bourdaloue tart. Bonus points for early birds: doors open at 7:30am sharp to fuel locals, cyclists and wandering souls, who soak up the hush of the terrace in the first light of day · Yanath Kandal

FEELING THIRST? Wines from all over France, with a distinctly natural tilt: a Loire Valley chenin from Stéphane Rocher (€6 a glass), an Ardèche skin-contact viognier-chardonnay from Pauline Maziou (€43 a bottle) and a trousseau from Guillaume Overnoy in the Jura (€52), plus apple-quince-verbena kombucha from Kombucha’Alpes (€6 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €18-20 (weekday lunch), à la carte €25-36 (evening).