Who always lands on their feet and has seven lives? Émilie Devaux, who was born in Japan and raised in Annonay, before spending a decade in Paris being mentored by chef-turned-baker Antony Courteille (at Sain in the 10th), driving a winetruck around town, and working as a home chef. She’s finally settled down in the Ardèche department, though all of her roads didn’t lead to Rome, but rather to Northern Italy (Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy, Veneto) and to this wood-clad bottega. What will you find there? Balsamico di Modena aged for 12 years, Piedmont hazelnuts, Chianina beef bresaola, classic porchetta (made from suckling pig), Tuscan pine honey, along with a few products from France (an Ardèche goose terrine) and elsewhere (Japanese long pepper). Don’t skip the tasting corner, even if the grocer whips up delightful sandwiches (€4.50 to €7.50), like the one with porchetta, mozzarella and fermented leeks. // Adrien Nouviaire 

The hidden gem: The unmissable guanciale for your homemade carbonara pastas (€2.50 for 100 g).