A former sommelier for Gagnaire during his Saint-Étienne years, he’s one of the best hidden cavistes in the Rhone Valley: for over a decade now, Fabien Louis has been cultivating his knowledge of natural wines in a former mechanic’s garage with neon lights, tucked away on the outskirts of Tain-L’Hermitage. As the region’s star winemakers show off their labels (and send their prices sky-high) in the center of town, he sells his treasure-filled collection (900 labels from the region and elsewhere) at rock bottom prices: a Crozes-Hermitage from Laurent Combier (€14), a cornas from the Domaine Auguste Clape (€108), Vent d’Ange, a Chablis from Thomas Pico (€24), Fleur de Lotus, an Alsatian white from the Domaine Josmeyer (€12.50)… With, as a bonus, less prestigious wines for under ten bucks, which you can dig out directly from their crates (an Ardèche syrah from L’Abbé Dubois at €5.50, a Côtes-Catalanes from the Domaine de l’Ausseil at €6), and a magical cheese fridge (Corsican brebis, saint-nectaire…), the boss’s other passion. FYI: if the metal awning is down, that’s because Fabien is out on his scooter or his e-bike for one of his guided tours of the vineyards. // Thomas Jossin 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: The Saint-Joseph from Marie Bacconnier (€25).