Even at the foot of the Trois Becs mountains, Orane Diaz and Laura Trignac’s Drôme wine shop dominates the landscape from the center of the village of Saillans. It should be noted that their enoteca – a former paper mill that was remodeled by the duo – gives pride of place to clean Rhone wines: expect options like a dry clairette-de-die produced by Sébastien Long, a skin-contact roussanne and grenache blend from La Ferme Saint-Martin, or a gamay from the Domaine de Maupas. And for something from a little further south, Charivari, a carignan from Loïc Roure, or Sentinelle, a mourvèdre that’s a cross between red wine and rosé, produced by Vincent Lafage. Are you feeling a little parched and itching for apéro hour to start? The queens of the lees serve their libations on their terrace (for a corkage fee of €6 to €14, in addition to the bottle price) alongside picodon cheese and local charcuterie boards, as well as a few homemade bites – salmon gravlax, lentil hummus, chocolate mousse. // Pica Bidon 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Vita Brevis, a local syrah-carignan blend from Sylvain Thevenet (€13 to go).