Cellar

Gramenon et compagnie

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In their supernatural wine shop, the Aubéry-Laurent family (Michèle, the boss of the Domaine Gramenon in the Drôme department, and her children Maxime-François, Agnès and Alix) only sell bottles made friends – you won’t find any wines made by anyone the owners don’t personally know. You can expect a cast of “affordable but not deviant” wines, according to the house byline: a Savoie Mondeuse from the Domaine Giachino (€16 a bottle), a Tavel from Éric Pfifferling (€29), a 2015 Mâcon-Chaintré from Philippe Valette (€29), a Touraine Chenin from Michel Autran (€20)… Which you can take home along with a bottle of olive oil from the Domaine Gramenon (only 50 to 70 bottles of it are sold per year!), some excellent charcuterie from Éric Ospital or briny tinned seafood from La Compagnie Bretonne. The ultimate tip: you can privatize the wine shop, so you can party with fine wines and delicious apéro platters. // Eric Taylor 

The bullet-proof bottle: Poignée de raisins, a 100% Grenache from the Domaine Gramenon (€11.50). 

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