Tohu Bohu

There’s a new joint making a lot of noise in this bar-packed neighborhood! Guillaume Duboeuf worked for Guillaume Monjuré at Palégrié in the Vercors, and met his sous-chef, Paolo Gnaccarini, at chef Christophe Aribert’s Alpine-influenced restaurant. The result of their union? A tasteful terroir-ist bistro (terrazzo tiling, untreated wood, unfinished walls) and delicate plates. The summer night we visited, the seven-course tasting menu was as light (on the wallet) as it was delicious! We particularly loved the thin slice of roasted zucchini topped with red mullet filet, brown crab rillettes and nasturtium mousse; the roasted eggplant vamped up with a series of condiments (including a ferocious baba ganoush infused with squid ink); the superb smoked Arctic char served warm, intensified by roasted beets and beetroot purée, shiso leaves and fermented redcurrants; the barbecued pigeon with a reduction, parsley, pepper and liver creams; and the divine dessert of apricot, meadowsweet ice cream, crushed meringue and fromage blanc mousse. // Eric Taylor

FEELING THIRSTY? : Antoine Flory is busy unearthing natural gems that get served by the glass (€8) or the bottle: Terroir de Saint Alban, a Savoie white from Mathieu and Camille Apffel (€40), Rittersberg, an Alsatian white from Soil Therapy (€55), or an Isère verdesse from Thomas Finot (€42), a Cornas red from Matthieu Barret (€60) or Prémices, a Beaujolais from Rémi Dufaître (€37).
PRICE: : Set menu €20-25 (lunch), €37 and €43 (dinner).