When in the holy Crozes-Hermitage lands, do head straight to Vincent and Keiko’s place! Inside a former forge that’s been skillfully restored (mouse grey chairs, luminous suspension lamps, a cool patio), the French-Japanese couple perpetuates the happy union between monsieur’s premium wine collection and madame’s well-made dishes. For us, the other night: divine shredded rabbit from La Maison Michel in Bourg-en-Bresse, sprinkled with hazelnuts; good slow-roasted liver with arugula; perfect cod steak paired with a celery purée and yuzu butter; and for a perfect ending to the meal, a roasted vine peach with whipped mint and tarragon meringue ganache. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? A spellbinding cuvée “M” Saint-Péray white from Johann Michel (€7 a glass), a virile Cornas from Rémy Naudin (€8), Les Croix, a Crozes-Hermitage red from David Reynaud (€40 a bottle), a Côte-Rôtie from the Domaine Gangloff (€90)…
PRICE: Menu €34-47.
