Saint-Étienne just can’t stop raising a glass for Edgar de Haro, who at not even 30 years old, took over the former Demain des Vins back in 2022 and turned it into La Cave Jovin, a wood-clad haven for carefully-curated natural wines. Across from the charming Square Jovin-Bouchard, this stellar selection (boasting over 600 labels) can be taken to go or enjoyed in-house for a €8 corkage fee in addition to the bottle price: Stella Maris, a Gard syrah from Olivier Pichon (€13.50 a bottle), a Jura trousseau produced by Overnoy-Crinquand (€24), Le Petit Camartel, a white blend from Guillaume Armand (€9.90), and an Alsatian crémant by Pépin (€16.50). Or if you just want a glass, the options change on the daily: when we went, it was a crisp jacquère from Bugey by Cindy Crama (€6). What about something to eat? There are perfect charcuterie boards made with Torrilhon meats or cheese plates from Fromagerie Perrin (both starting at €5.50), and on Thursday and Friday nights there’s a market dish (€10-15): beef carpaccio, seasonal tabbouleh, potée auvergnate, smoked pork loin with olives… // Will Tippin

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Libre Pensée, a 2020 gamay that’s light but still full-bodied produced by Clotaire Michal, a winemaker who trained under Thierry Allemand in Cornas.