After gaining momentum at Saturne in Paris then Sépia in Marseille, Victor Sauzay finally took the plunge and opened up Plongeon. A mere ricochet from the InterContinental, turn into a lobster under the UVs on the terrace while delighting in the best the Vieux Port market has to offer and the latest meats from Viandes Éthique, all skillfully prepared with the chef’s masterful flair. For example, on this scorching evening during the heatwave: exceptionally tender, diced Mediterranean bonito garnished with green beans that had bite, cherries and fresh almonds – a nod to Sven Chartier’s iconic dish at Saturne; free-range pork loin roasted over the embers, with perfectly cooked coco beans, tomato chutney, Marseille peppers and an intense jus; before a chocolate tart with a hit of piment d’Espelette and crunchy praline, which well and truly floored us. // Gwen Jaquere

FEELING THIRSTY? From the menu, we rescue a white Coteaux-du-Lyonnais Antica from the Domaine de Prapin (€8 a glass) and a Vinsobres from the Domaine Chaume-Arnaud (€32 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus and menus €24-28 (lunch) and €44 (dinner).