Le Restaurant Sans Nom

In a narrow dining room done up with brick and stone that has a typically Toulousian feel, two childhood friends have pulled together a tiny restaurant that claims to be sans nom, or nameless. It’s centered around a long communal table and a bar, the perfect spot for watching what’s happening in the kitchen. That’s where Fabian Lecoustre (a former sommelier at Pantagruel in Paris) serves natural wines to wash down chef Robin Mothe’s hearty small plates (ex-Glastag in Toulouse): a spellbinding roasted cauliflower and cauliflower purée served cold with a dry fruit crumble and apple brunoise; a briny oyster and steak tartare with soy sauce and tequila; artistic flash-seared calf’s head under sauce gribiche, all intensified by his perfectly mastered science of seasoning; and a comforting baba au rhum with plums, pears, chocolate and praliné. // Auguste Marie 

FEELING THIRSTY? Naturopathic wines made by friends: Les Grandes Vignes; a Côtes-du-Rhône red from La Cave d’Estézargues (€5 a glass), Los Annegeles, a Languedoc white from Anne Paillet; Métro, Boulot, Beaujo, a Beaujolais wine from the Domaine des Canailles (€38 a bottle)… 
PRICE: Small plates €7-15.