As you pass through Baba Canteen’s massive windowed facade, you’ll feel like you’re walking through Alice’s looking glass. On the other side is a beautiful pale white space with a modern layout centered around a vintage credenza that’s been turned into a bar. Behind that bar you’ll find Morgane Catay and Raphaël Szuba (ex-Beaumarly and Le Pyrénéen) busy preparing their good fast food with local ingredients sourced from Persil et Compagnie, Maison Boyer or Sampietro, for some incredible breakfasts, lunches, brunches and snacks with Mediterranean accents. The day we went for lunch: a Baba salad of lentils, roasted radishes and tomatoes, creamy labneh, pickled mustard seeds and a condiment made from olive oil, dill, lemon and chili; an ultra-soft homemade bun filled with turkey pastrami, marinated zucchini, tarragon, mint and turmeric mayonnaise; before a Scandinavian sockerbullar-style beignet with an apple-cinnamon filling. And before returning to the real world, don’t forget to grab a vegan cookie made with peanut praline and peanut butter for an afternoon treat. // A.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Homemade mint or plain lemonade (€4), iced tea (€3.70), coffees from the Toulousian roaster Hayuco (€1.90 to €3.70) or La Brewlangerie beers (€5 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Breakfast €6-7, mains €8-10, pastries €3-4, brunch €22, à la carte €15.50 to €18.50.