L'Arpète

Rodolphe Lafarge, known to Toulouse residents by his blogger handle, Rod’n’roll, traded in his mouse and keyboard for a set of kitchen knives. After exploring the restaurant world, he ended up taking root in the former restaurant of Paul Fourcade and Olivier Sy (ex-Loge 24 at the Marché des Carmes), which he renamed L’Arpète. It’s a stylish little spot, with a zinc-topped bar, plus mashrabiya-style walls and banquettes. Backed up in the kitchen by Valentine Le Noan (ex-Bistrot du Potager in Lyon), he sends out unfussy bistro cuisine, like the lunchtime set menu we ordered that day: a perfectly prepared herring and potato salad; tender pork cheeks with rice pilaf; and an always-satisfying crème caramel. For something a little sexier, there was a generous serving of veal kidneys in mustard sauce, paired with a seemingly-endless cheesy macaroni casserole; cheese naan with keftas, tzatziki, onions, sumac, dill and pine nuts; a “corn lotte,” aka a monkfish corn dog drizzled in spicy mayo and a mayo-free coleslaw; veal sweetbreads with peas, broad beans, the first chanterelle mushrooms of the season, oyster mushrooms, veal jus and chive blossoms; and a slice of banoffee pie on a chocolate shortbread crust, with banana and lime compote, caramelized pecans and creamy siphoned caramel! // Auguste Marie 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Wines that tend to be natural: a Landolfi red from the Domaine Le Novi in the Luberon (€5.40 a glass), À Bouche Que Veux-Tu, a Provence white from Jean-Christophe Comor (€32 a bottle), Xi-Ro, a Greek red from the Domaine Ligas (€38)… 
PRICE: : Set menu €17-20 (lunch), à la carte €32-49 (dinner).