On the main road as you leave Marche-en-Famenne, there’s a beautiful traditional gray stone country house which screams this place means serious business. From the over-the-top service to the vaguely designer furniture, the tiny Japanese garden and the type of cutlery chosen, one thing’s for certain: Les 4 Saisons, the new playground of Pascal Nisette (ex-Le Bistrot des Saveurs), is has its eye on the major guides. So it’s no surprise that there’s a prix-fixe menu. The day we went, the business lunch at almost friendly prices started with a festoon of appetizers (savory bacon cake, ham hock croquette, creamy cauliflower velouté with fish roe, a bitesized morsel of hand-cut steak tartare), followed by: delicious roasted duck foie gras, asparagus, lemon jelly and wild garlic; flash-seared pollack, yummy sauce homardine and melted cos lettuce; and light and airy tiramisu with coffee ice cream that gets the job done. It’s chic, precise and full of flavor. Now, time to loosen up a little? // Tony Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A mainly tradi-bourgeois selection of oaky wines…. with a few clean options that save the day: a morgon vieilles vignes from the timeless Domaine Lapierre (€58), a white vacqueyras from the Domaine Montirius (€77) or a gigondas from the Domaine d’Ourea (€65). Otherwise, aperitifs, gin and tonics and other classics of that kind.

PRICE: Business lunch €29-35 (weekday lunch), menus €43-63.