Hidden down a little side street in central Marche-en-Famenne, François-Xavier Simon’s chic gourmet restaurant goes all undercover agent on us. However, a photo next to the bar reveals the hidden truth: the chef learnt the ropes under Pierre Gagnaire, and then, as if that weren’t enough, under Joël Robuchon and Anthony Genovese. It’s no laughing matter! The evening we went, the dishes fired hell for leather out of the kitchen, confirming our suspicions: frog legs in foamy brown butter, melted leeks, parmesan cream and grilled guanciale; before the Anjou pigeon which was a total knockout, with butternut squash and mango chutney, golden turnip purée and vadouvan curry blend jus, with the technical prowess of a trapeze artist; and to finish, the taste buds say yes to the blood orange and roasted pineapple dessert, with peanut praline, coconut and white chocolate – all doused in rum, Colonel-style. Delightful service. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? Unfortunately, the wine list is slightly stuck on the traditional side, but there are a few gems like Elisabeth, a riesling from the Weingut Rücker winery (€57 a bottle) or a sumptuous 2018 Cornaline vintage from the one and only Dominique Hauvette in the Alpilles mountains (€98). Otherwise, cocktails and aperitifs with a local flavor (€10-13) and beers from 3 Fonteinen or Malpolon (€28-63 for 750 ml).

PRICE: Starters €23-25, mains €34-42, cheeses €14, desserts €12-14.