Les Brigittines

The show’s this way, folks! Part-art deco museum, part-music hall (when the wait staff put on Abba to celebrate), Les Brigittines continues to shine in the firmament of Brussels monuments, more than 25 years after the larger-than-life Dirk Myny took over the reins of this former post office. In the sumptuous double dining room with arabesques and framed paintings, the maître d’ who appears to have been around as long as the walls and classic Franco-Belgian menu, really couldn’t care less about Le Fooding passing by. And yet, they really pulled out the stops: first-rate produce, generosity à go-go, and a playful atmosphere to boot, despite the prices that are a little bit hefty, but justified. That day at lunch, we joyfully scarfed down: some outstanding shrimp croquettes as vibrant as a bustling fish market; extremely tender Galician veal tongue from the Carnivale butcher’s, plus a fiendishly good sauce gribiche; followed by the iconic slow-cooked eggplant topped with orange sorbet. In the evening, it’s a repeat performance, otherwise you can opt for the belt-loosening four-course menu (two appetizers, a main and a dessert), where the owner serves his favorites. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSY? It’s one organic, biodynamic and natural extravaganza: a mixed blend Alsatian Edelzwicker from the Domaine Lissner (€38), Savoyard white Eponyme from the late Dominique Belluard (€85 a bottle), or a Brouilly from Laurence and Rémi Dufaitre (€62). There are also beers from local breweries – Cantillon and En Stoemelings (€20-42).

PRICE: Menus €35 (lunch) and €65 (dinner), food and wine pairings €27.50, à la carte €49-87 (except Friday evening).