The (Em)bourgeois locals have reason to let loose! Ex-journalist Baudoin Galler took over this neighborhood café and turned it into a restaurant for friends, where putting your elbows on the table is encouraged. Along with his pal and associate, Benjamin Denis (ex-Couvert Couvert in Heverlee), together they knock out drool-worthy bistronomic plates that have plenty of cheek, are skillfully sourced and come with a hint of Italian flavors. Take that evening’s 100% vegetarian menu: a stunning martino sandwich with carrots, piquillos, peppers and caper leaves; tasty endive braised in seaweed butter, plus a blood orange condiment with dashi and a seaweed crumble; mouthwatering Flemish-style asparagus; linguine from the Marches, Piedmont hazelnuts and locally grown wild garlic; and a brilliant chocolate tart topped with whipped cream and maple syrup. Eyed on the lunch menu: veal gravlax with dried capers and lemon; celeriac and smoked tuna mayo; or even grilled pork like in Alentejo, with clams and paprika tomato sauce. Finally, some good manners! // Amber Oisy
FEELING THIRSTY? Typically natural bottles, selected by the wine-loving Baudoin: L’Appel à un ami, a half-apple, half-grape Belgian UAP from Pablo and Jade Cremers (€7 a glass), Mademoiselle M, a Loire Sauvignon from Alexandre Bain (€62 a bottle), or a fresh red Dão from Casa de Mouraz (€35).
PRICE: Menus €39 (lunch) and €45 (dinner), plates €15-33 (except Friday evening).
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