Ask anyone from the Campine: you never really leave. After opening their first restaurant next door to Grandma Colette’s (herself once a cook at Kasteel de Merode), followed by a spell in Averbode, chef Thijs Vervloet (whose CV includes Joël Robuchon and Viki Geunes) and his partner Lore Leys are back! This time they’ve moved into a former physician’s house (curved banquettes, veined stonework, fringed light fixtures, crisp tablecloths), serving menus that change tune from one course to the next: delicate pig’s trotter ravioli; lobster with confit tomatoes, Taggiasca olives and tarragon; crisp green and white asparagus served with roasted Bresse chicken, its skin beautifully seared, and morels; before two impressive dessert and ice-cream trolleys roll into view, loaded with the likes of Saint-Honoré and basil sorbet. There’s no place like home! · Rita Misù

Feeling thirsty? A cellar overseen by sommelier Jessica Klook (wine pairings €80-€100): Crémant de Bourgogne by Bouhélier, a Piedmont white erbaluce di caluso from Orsolano, or a red Kπ from Daniël Ramos. Plus, gin and tonic at €21 a glass.

Price: Four-course market menu €155 (Wednesday, Thursday, Friday lunch only), signature menu €230.