Brandstof Cellar (Mortsel)

© Vince Van Hoorick

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Watch out for the train that leaves without warning! Maxime Vanhove, Joop Wanten and Cedric Van Geel have set up their wine shop supply stop in the old SNCB rail building overlooking the asthma-inducing din of railway line 25, in what used to be Lina’s bakery. With connections looking unlikely, the warehouse-style shelves quench the thirst for travel and all things natural: fresh Sicilian wines from Alessandro Viola, dazzling Alsatian bottles from Ginglinger or Dirringer, fiery Catalan labels from Clos Lentiscus, tempting Anglo-Saxon apple concoctions from Oliver’s Cider… Stow one away for later or pop one open right away (at double the price of the bottle) with tapas (mackerel burnt to perfection; generous focaccia-burrata; white asparagus, pancetta and scrambled eggs), when it’s not divine carbonara or Belgian bolognaise night – Sundays only. All aboard! // Sugar Kowalczyk

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Kéké, a Beaujolais from Kevin Descombes (€21 to take away) – it’s “super good,” according to Cédric Van Geel.

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