Like father, like son… and my, what a great-grandmother! Matil, as she was affectionately known, lives on through chefs Johan and Umi Cuypers, who channel her spirit in their light-filled pavilion in Heempark. Between polished concrete and terra cotta walls, the duo carries forward her radical take on seasonality, championing ultra-local sourcing (vegetables from Mangelmoes farm, herbs straight from the garden), in a three-, four- or five-course vegetarian tasting menu. Take the other evening: roasted yellow beets with anchovy salsa, puffed buckwheat and purslane; Alouette potato pommes soufflés, lifted with a zing of preserved lemon and served with maple samara and chervil “country caviar”; ravioli stuffed with ricotta and cavolo nero from the garden, bathed in a deep wild mushroom broth, alongside creamy polenta and truffle espuma; and to finish, a sabayon-style blood orange rice pudding. All enjoyed while watching Umi prepare next week’s fermented kale in the kitchen… Safe to say, we’ll be back – Grandma or not! · Helmut Biscotti

Feeling thirsty? A concise yet uncompromising wine list: Susucaru, a Sicilian red blend from Frank Cornelissen (€65 a bottle), Les Ciels Changeants, a Jura Chardonnay from Phillip Hedderman (€59)… and a few Belgian beers, like a Jan Withops white IPA from Brauw brewery (€4.50 for 330 ml).

Price: Lunch menus €39-55 (3-4 courses), dinner €59-69 (4-5 courses), sharing plates €12.50-29.50, desserts €11-15 (dinner).