Fancy dinner at nonna‘s? Head to Mazzoni’s, una vera trattoria run by Bart Huybrechts and Thomas Van de Weyer (Hiro), with the Milan-born maestro Davide Mazzoni (Oud Sluis, The Jane, Cielo) commanding in the kitchen. Don’t expect any bells and whistles, here it’s all about flavors that are, quite simply, bellissime. The undisputed showstopper? The large grill, where porchetta (Mangalica pork from Alexander Vermeulen), gilthead bream and octopus slowly turn golden and crispy, stealing the spotlight in the middle of the room. The night we went, the menu was of acrobatic proportions: artichoke and eggplant dips with freshly baked focaccia and grissini; burrata with spinach and crushed pistachios; puntarella and fennel salad laced with anchovies and a memorable arugula pesto with Parmesan and truffle; plus irresistible vegetable tempura, if that weren’t enough! Then, no fewer than five more dishes graced the table: caramelle di coda alla vaccinara, candy-shaped pasta stuffed with creamy braised oxtail; truffle fettuccine; tonnarelli al pomodoro; pasta e fagioli; and Milanese risotto. For the grand finale? The luscious porchetta, perfectly seasoned and served with crispy Brussels sprouts and salsify in a punchy sauce – followed, of course, by a heavenly tiramisu. Because, could it really end any other way? · Gordon Zola

FEELING THIRSTY? The heavily-stocked shelves boast an array of wines, but don’t expect a paper menu: vermentino di Sardegna from Antonella Corda (€9 a glass), a white Zibibbo in Pithos 2022 from Azienda Agricola Cos (€65 a bottle), or a red Barbaresco Starderi 2019 from Traversa (€105). Otherwise, opt for the house Negroni infused with sage (€15).

PRICE: Menu €100, appetizers €18-22, mains €28-90, desserts €12.