restaurant

Mélia

Restaurant Mélia (Porto-Vecchio)

© Louis Maurel

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Hiding in the maquis shrubland, gazing out over the sea… Tables spill across a terraced garden where, each summer, an open-air kitchen flickers into life. This is where Guillaume Quenza, Matthieu Biron and Baptiste Radufe invite guests chefs to come put on a performance, taking over the flames for seasonal residencies. On this August evening of season two, it was Jordan Moilim (journalist and chef previously spotted at Bonhomie in Paris) holding court, following in the footsteps of Justine Pruvot (ex-Le Chardon in Arles), Félix Clerc (Symbiose in Bordeaux) and Minh Tran Dinh (the “king of Parisian banh mi”). The evening kicked-off in style: plump, golden salt cod fritters dunked in a zingy parsley-horseradish mayo; charred pak choi and cos lettuce slathered in a creamy Caesar dressing, showered with croutons, Valicella sheep’s milk cheese and chili oil; fiery vitello tonnato jolted awake with nuoc mam, herb oil and mouth-popping fried capers; then came a showstopping plate of mezzi rigatoni sauced in bisque and crab oil, finished with a flutter of lemony breadcrumbs; juicy barbecued Corsican pork chop followed, paired with fava beans, tomato and chimichurri with nepita (Corsican wild marjoram); and to go out in style, toasted coconut ice cream with sweet clover dulce de leche, fig leaf sabayon and yuzu gel. Roll on next summer! · Marie Madeleine

FEELING THIRSTY? Corsican wines, naturally, like Uva, a Patrimonio white from Clos Marfisi (€42 a bottle) or a Figari red from Domaine Nicolai (€50 a bottle). Otherwise, cocktails and mocktails hold their own, like the Gabrielle 0% (lacto-fermented apricots, ginger beer and rosemary, €11).

PRICE: Mains €10-40, desserts €13.

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