As we pushed back the door to our favorite Cabanon on the first day after lockdown, it was impossible not to forgive the fact that they weren’t answering the phone, the staff faltered a bit and the dishes had a few imperfections…. Because what matters most is that Nadine Micheli and Loïc Terrier, her fisherman husband, kept their seafood bistro afloat! Served à la carte the other day at lunch, seated on the colorful terrace: a stunning green zebra tomato gazpacho swirled with creamy burrata and a crisp vegetable brunoise; gnocchi coated in a pre-made tomato sauce (such a shame!); ultra-fresh catch of the day by the owner (corb and forkbeard, the day we went), that was perfectly cooked and served with potatoes (not hot enough) and roasted carrots, all moistened by an enchanting fish fumet; before a tantalizing chocolate mousse for dessert. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The very best Corsican winemakers are on display: a Calvi white from the Domaine Alzipratu (€6 a glass), a Tranoi red from the Domaine Santamaria (€26 a bottle), Les Hauts de Carco, a Patrimonio white from Antoine-Marie Arena (€47); plus a few gems from the mainland: Domaine Gauby, Domaine Saint Nicolas…

PRICE: À la carte €46-64.