At least things are clear: you come here to stuff your face with noodles, real ones, made with masterfully hand-kneaded dough by Shoubin and prepared by Wei Li, who is always smiling behind their big, smoking hot pots. Served in soup, in a good broth base with beef, shellfish, bacon, vegetables… or in a saucy preparation, like spicy Sichuan sauce for the Dan Dan noodles, sesame and peanut sauce for the Re Gan noodles… to which you can add grilled dumplings or bao zi (stuffed with beef and pork) that are as juicy as can be. Any way you take it, they’re filled with the flavors of Gansu, an arid region in the center of China, traversed by the Gobi Desert. A victim of its own success and its tiny prices, it’s often sold out, especially at lunchtime, so make sure to reserve a table ahead of time, especially since they no longer do take-away in order to fully focus on their regulars, with whom they happily chat away in either Mandarin or French. // Mireille Flocon

FEELING THIRSTY? Unless you’re in the mood for a big glass of broth, you can opt for a Tsingtao beer (€3), Chinese iced tea or litchi juice (€2.50).
PRICE: Noodle bowls €9-11, bao zi €5 for two, grilled dumplings €6 for six.