There’s a hint of the Trente Glorieuses’ economic boom and the advent of paid holidays at this wood-clad hangar located along the docks, which still boasts plenty of briny authenticity. Outside, the fish tanks are filled with fresh eats, which find their way onto the tables inside via the formule royale menus. Looking to indulge? Try one of the two massive shellfish platters (the full monty: oysters, periwinkles, whelks, grey shrimp, langoustines, razor clams, crab legs, scallops, royal shrimp, spider crab, king prawns), a half-kilo Canadian lobster and a bottle of Pommery Brut for 162 bucks. Or plump lobster croquettes served with a bunch of fried parsley the night we went; and a whole grilled lobster swimming in a sea of garlicky butter sauce, which we devoured down to the last morsel. // Mireille Flocon

FEELING THIRSTY? A conventional wine list that plays up the 50 shades of white angle: a glass of Chenin for €5.80, a Pouilly-Fumé Ladoucette (€55 a bottle), a Chablis from Regnard (€67), Les Clous, a Meursault from Bouard Père et Fils (€94)…
PRICE: Appetizers €14-20, oysters €23-25 for six, mussels €26-29, fish €24-38, shellfish platters €48.