Are you looking for neutral ground for a meeting between your white-wine-loving in-laws and your red-wine-loving parents? Hilde and Ivo Bulcke’s cave à manger has what it takes to make your mother-in-law realize that her offspring is no longer six years old and make your parents go au naturel without them realizing it, thanks to chef Frederic Horne’s flair, who since 2017 has been whipping up punchy small plates, amongst the heavy-hitting shelves filled with gems like Romanissa from the Domaine Matassa in the Roussillon, Weiss, a German white by Marto Wines, or the beautifully labelled Kolombour from Karnage in the Jura… On the plates? A generous chunk of homemade pork cheek pâté – to spread on still warm brioche bread, weever brandade with celeriac mash, or gray shrimp with mashed potatoes… Wash it all down with a bottle in house for an additional €15 corkage fee (€18 for sparkling wines). // Mireille Snowflake
THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Anatole, the house Gamay from Burgundy, produced in collaboration with Fanny Saber (€26.70).
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