“Kumbaya motherfu*ckers!” The name of this spot and its graffiti-covered walls (done by Denis Meyers) should have acted as a warning to the visibly shaken guests at the next table over: in addition to the waxed concrete details, everything is very brut, aka raw, here. And if the banter, tattoos and overly-fitted tee-shirts of boss Bruno Timperman might shock the most sensitive among you, his terroir-ist verve was a resounding success at our table the day we went: a spellbinding toast topped with mussels in a cauliflower cream with pickled mustard seeds; bombastic raviolo-style radicchio hiding langoustine tartare with bergamot zest, in a pool of tapioca balls; perfect slow-cooked cod splashed with codium oil and plankton salad; and an orange creation for dessert – carrot ice cream, citrus compote and sweet meringue. Serious business, folks! // Sam Oups

FEELING THIRSTY? Fermented juices without uninvited additions, like this Saumur Anitya, a Chenin produced by Emmanuel Haget (€9 a glass), a Latium Rosato rosé from Le Coste (€78 a bottle), Vïs Tchapias Poupouye, a Belgian skin-contact Chardonnay from the Domaine Beekborne (€63), Cailloux, an Auvergne Gamay from Patrick Bouju (€75)…
PRICE: Set menus €70 (lunch) and €120 (dinner).