It’s a shame it took Carl Van Oyen 29 years to catch the restaurant bug… But he’s certainly making up for lost time! After stoking his late-blooming passion at hotel management school, he sharpened his skills at Sergio Herman’s Pure C in Cadzand, Auberge de Herborist and De Karmeliet in Bruges, before refining his craft in the Parisian kitchens of Septime. And now, the chef (who’s also a trained butcher) has opened up his very own place, nestled inside a typical Bruges house featuring a crow-stepped gable and a rebellious spirit (exposed beams, a black-tiled counter, rough textured walls, Pink Floyd playing in the background). On the plates? Warm oysters doused in a rich mousseline sauce; first-rate fried chicken thighs that were perfectly juicy and combined with spicy gochujang, velvety yogurt and crunchy roasted peanuts; a precious cut of Iberico secreto pork grilled on a Japanese Konro grill, served alongside grilled endive with an apple glaze, a drizzle of rich Madeira sauce and Pas de Rouge cheese mousse; and for the irresistible finale, freshly churned vanilla ice cream with a lightly salted cocoa crumble, chocolate sauce and unsweetened whipped cream. · Schannul

FEELING THIRSTY? Twenty or so carefully-selected wines, including a Touraine gamay from La Piffaudière (€46 a bottle) and Vive Chinon, a chenin from the Domaine Plouzeau (same price), as well as a kriek from 3 Fonteinen (€16 for 375 ml) and Del Professore vermouth (€8 a glass).

PRICE: Lunch €28-38 (2-3 courses), plates €8.50 to €26 and desserts €12-14 (dinner).