With its tiny terrace right near the “Capu” farmers’ market, oak bar, scattered Dutch ovens, vegetable crates and old butcher’s blocks converted into tables, François Pervillé’s (ex-Brasserie Bordelaise) venerable bistro sure guarantees a good time. Because for five years now, the best navarins, bourguignons and grilled meats in the city have been parading out of the kitchens here, prepared by chef Jacques In’On (ex-Guérard) using beautiful meats from the nearby covered market. For us, the day we went for lunch: some lovely deviled eggs eaten at the bar to get things started; then a heartening fish soup with garlicky croutons; extra juicy veal kidneys en persillade with vegetables; before a slice of plum tart that was as mouthwatering (on the bar) as it was copious (on the plate). // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Over 400 labels to choose from, including a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine de la Mordorée or a Tranche de Chardonnay du Beaujolais from Philippe and Catherine Jambon (€5.50 a glass), and a beautiful Côtes-de-Nuits-Villages red from the Domaine Naudin-Ferrand (€79 a bottle).

PRICE: Dish of the day €13 (weekday lunch), à la carte €29-48.