From Pomerol to Saint-Emilion, all the locals come to dine at this former hotel transformed into a retro bistro by chef Stéphane Casset. For the past 10 years, he’s been delighting guests with big meaty dishes and pro-terroir flashes of inspiration. The day we went, we ate our €17 lunch set menu near the fireplace: grilled meager and bonito in soy sauce, shredded into a lemony lentil soup with crisp carrots; creamy veal with a chorizo and pepper velouté, asparagus mousse and broad beans with black radish; before a nice baba au rhum. And for a complete knockout meal: prime rib from the Haurut butcher shop in Sainte-Terre with potatoes fried in duck fat (€60 a kilo), suckling veal chops for two with homemade mashed potatoes and ground meat, just like grandma used to make (€54), etc. To drink, there’s plenty of Bordeaux wines, along with others: La Loge aux Moines, a Pouilly-Fumé (€6 a glass), an organic Saint-Émilion grand cru from the Château d’Arcole (€42 a bottle) and a Corsican white from Le Clos Canarelli (€55). Menus €17 (weekday lunch) and €30 (dinner and weekends), tapas €8-18, à la carte €45-64. // D.N.