Chez Gaster

In his Rabelaisian home (a 15^th-century sculpted wood facade, exposed rafters, blackboard menus, wine posters), the talented Robin Pasquier (ex-Akrame in Paris) delights Tours’ gourmet diners with his cheeky and carefully dressed cuisine. Served à la carte the other night: an opulent, crispy pork trotter crowned with sauce gribiche, placed atop a bed of green lentils; erudite poached veal brains with capers and a lemony butter sauce; a simple bluefin tuna tartare, barely brushed with a ponzu vinaigrette; a massive Roi Rose pork chop from Tours, roasted majestically and paired with buttery mashed potatoes – an atomic bomb of flavor! Before a dense chocolate, coffee and salted butter mousse. And what about lunchtime? Expect options like a grilled zucchini salad with red chilies and feta, followed by blood sausage parmentier and crème caramel. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? The “divine bottle” is alive and well: a thirst-quenching Loire blend from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf (€7 a glass); a vigorous Cabernet Franc from Nicolas Reau (€32 a bottle); an incisive Burgundy Aligoté from Fanny Sabre (€38); an organic Saint-Émilion from Les Vignobles Pueyo (€54)…

PRICE: Menus €15-18 (lunch), kids’ menu €10-12, à la carte €31-48.