Patricia and Hervé Chardonneau (who used to run Le Casse-Cailloux in Tours) chose Montlouis, the land of white wine, for their double-sided bistro. On the heads side (tufa stone walls, wood and steel furniture), they pamper guests with a “berlot” – a meal served at the end of the grape harvest in the local jargon! Take the other day at lunch as an example: a pearly white medallion of smoked Albacore tuna over a bed of coco de Paimpol beans – or formidable pork and porcini mushroom terrine; a fantastic, dome-shaped, slow-roasted eggplant filled with minced lamb, all glazed in a jus de viande and served with homemade fries; before a dangerously good apricot-peach compote under a scoop of unsweetened mascarpone… And on the tails side of the coin? The wine bar! Ideal for ordering appetizers from the restaurant as tapas to pair with a few glasses of wine. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? 250 wines from both the local region and further away: a Gamay from the Domaine Castaingt Boyeldieu in Francueil (€4 a glass), a Sauvignon from Laurent Saillard in Pouillé (€30 a bottle), a Drome white blend from the Domaine Gramenon (€32), a Roussillon Mourvèdre from Zulu Wine (€36)…

PRICE: Menu-carte €32, tapas and platters €10 at the wine bar.